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Stewart Island’s Rakiura Track

Nestled at the southern tip of Aotearoa lies Stewart Island, known as Rakiura in te reo Māori, meaning “the land of glowing skies”. This remote paradise is home to one of the country’s most accessible and rewarding Great Walks – the Rakiura Track. A 32-kilometre loop that showcases the island’s pristine beaches, lush forests, and rich history, the Rakiura Track offers trampers a unique opportunity to experience the untamed beauty of our southernmost national park.

The Journey Begins

The adventure starts in Oban, the island’s only township, where trampers can stock up on supplies and collect their hut tickets from the Department of Conservation (DOC) visitor centre. From here, it’s a short walk or shuttle ride to Lee Bay, where an iconic chain link sculpture marks the official entrance to Rakiura National Park.

As you step through this symbolic gateway, you’re immediately immersed in coastal bush, with the sound of waves crashing against the shore accompanying your first steps on the track. The initial stretch from Lee Bay to Port William Hut is a gentle introduction, winding along the coastline and offering stunning views of the Foveaux Strait.

Day One: Coastal Wonders

The first day’s walk, typically taking 3-4 hours, leads trampers through a variety of landscapes. You’ll cross the Southern Hemisphere’s longest footbridge at Whananaki Estuary, a 395-metre wooden structure that’s an adventure in itself. As you progress, the track alternates between well-formed paths and stretches of golden sand beach, including the picturesque Maori Beach.

This section of the track is rich in history, with remnants of early Māori settlements and European sawmilling operations scattered along the way. Keep an eye out for the rusting steam boiler near Maori Beach, a tangible link to the island’s logging past.

Day Two: Into the Heart of Rakiura

The second day presents the most challenging section of the track, a 6-hour journey from Port William Hut to North Arm Hut. This inland route takes trampers through the heart of Rakiura’s podocarp forest, where rimu, kamahi, and miro trees tower overhead.

As you traverse this ancient woodland, listen for the distinctive calls of tui, bellbird, and kākā. The Rakiura tokoeka, the island’s unique species of kiwi, is also active during daylight hours, offering a rare chance to spot our national bird in its natural habitat.

Day Three: Paterson Inlet and Sawmill Relics

The final day of the track follows the shoreline of Paterson Inlet, a vast expanse of sheltered water that’s home to a thriving marine ecosystem. This section provides insight into the island’s industrial heritage, passing by the sites of former sawmills that once employed over 100 people.

As you approach the end of the track at Fern Gully, take a moment to reflect on the journey. The varied landscapes you’ve traversed – from windswept beaches to dense native bush – encapsulate the diverse beauty of Stewart Island.

Practical Considerations

The Rakiura Track is renowned for its accessibility, making it an ideal choice for those new to multi-day tramping or families looking for an adventure. However, it’s important to come prepared:

  • Book huts in advance through the DOC website, especially during peak season (October to April).
  • Pack for all weather conditions – Stewart Island’s climate is notoriously changeable.
  • Bring sturdy, waterproof footwear and gaiters, as parts of the track can get muddy.
  • Carry sufficient food and water, as there are no supply points along the track.

Beyond the Track

While the Rakiura Track itself is a 3-day adventure, many trampers choose to extend their stay on Stewart Island. The island offers numerous other walking opportunities, from short nature trails to the challenging 10-12 day North West Circuit.

For those interested in wildlife, a visit to Ulva Island is a must. This predator-free sanctuary is a short water taxi ride from Oban and provides an unparalleled opportunity to see rare native birds up close.

A Unique Kiwi Experience

The Rakiura Track offers more than just beautiful scenery; it’s a chance to experience a part of Aotearoa that few Kiwis ever visit. The island’s small population (around 400 permanent residents) and vast areas of untouched wilderness create a sense of stepping back in time.

As you walk the track, you’re not just traversing landscapes – you’re walking through layers of history, from ancient Māori settlements to the boom and bust of the timber industry. Each step on the Rakiura Track is a step into our nation’s past and a reminder of the natural treasures we’re privileged to protect.

Whether you’re a seasoned tramper or a first-time Great Walker, the Rakiura Track promises an unforgettable journey through one of our country’s most pristine environments. It’s a chance to disconnect from the modern world, reconnect with nature, and experience the true meaning of Rakiura – the land of glowing skies.

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